Friday, April 27, 2012

Two Days of Progress and Pleasure


I had a great day with Marcos Morcillo and Xavi Vilanova (two of the partners in Micologial Forestal Aplicada) probably the world’s leading scientific truffle authority and inoculated tree and technology supplier. http://www.micofora.com/index.asp?Idioma=EN&opc=1 and http://www.oregontrufflefestival.com/truffle_growers_forum.html


The intention was to have a half day together, but we ended up enjoying the whole day, covering all aspects of truffles and other mycorrhizal  science, business and technology development etc, etc. Suffice to say it was an excellent meeting of minds and I am hopeful we will be working together on a number of activities, including my coming plantations, so watch this space. Interestingly, as well as being a biological scientist Xavi is a painter and his father is the renowned Catalan Painter Ramon Vilanova. Some people get all the talent. We had an excellent four, yes four course lunch including choice of starter. I went for the salad to start, a superb traditional catalan paella, followed by lamb off the bone in a deep rich brown sauce with whole peppers and a catalan version of profiteroles...all for....wait for it 9.00 euros. We arrived at 1.00 and didn't leave until nearly 4.00.

It was fascinating to hear the Catalan language spoken between Marcos and Xavi, although their English is excellent. I've been to Barcelona and heard it around me before and our town Le Soler has catalan schools from maternelle through primary and College (secondary school) and the Marie has applied for a 40 place Lycee (6th form). We are interestingly the only town in the Rousssillon (Northern or French Catalonia with this provision) though I understand there are a few Bressola - first schools in other towns.


I spent this morning with Lauren Besomes a remarkable young wine maker whose wine was one of the first great wines I discovered when we moved here. Although I have never met Lauren before, I am a friend and ex neighbour of Richard Navarro who managed one part of his estate, near Thuir as they were our nearest neighbour across the field from the Mas we rented when we first came here. I discussed helping Lauren market Domaine Singla www.domainesingla.com wines into the UK quality restaurant direct market as well as buying some of his land for truffles. The latter is not possible. I have had the great pleasure of drinking a lot of very good wine but, his Ambre (a half bottle gift from Richard 5 years ago and the last one of 1998) is undoubtedly the closest thing I have ever put in my mouth that can be described as nectar. This along with his other superb range of modern Roussillon wines, all improved in comlexity and smoothness by his craft since I first enjoyed them 5 years ago (but they were good then). Of course, being the Roussillon even though we are meeting at 09.30, there will be a full estate range degustation. A spittoon was provided but there was no expectation it should be used...It has been a long leisurely but surprisingly productive Friday. I will be selling his wines through the truffle trees website soon, so look out for them.

I mentioned that the part of the estate next to where we lived was managed, as Lauren explained, he no longer has that. Like me, Lauren trained to be a lawyer (he got out and followed his blood back to winemaking), but French succession laws are a curse since it's not possible to disinherit children and since Laurens uncle, who had shared their Domaine's various properties with Lauren's father wanted to pass on to his sons (neither has been interested in wine making), Lauren had to make the choice of which of the three to give up for his two cousins. This meant the loss of employment for Richard as sadly the brothers have put the Mas and it's 10 hectares up for sale and the vines, which had been contributing to the reputation of Domaine Singla, now lie untended, with no buyer in sight. Could be a rare opportunity for someone to buy and join yourself back under the Singla estate, with Lauren's tutelage or buy and work out an agreement for laurne to run it for you under his brand. Anyone interested call me and I'll put you in touch.

I asked Lauren if he could not have leased it from his cousins, but as he said, what is the point even if they agreed, he would have to give it up within 10 years, so better to concentrate on refining the wines on the 52 hectares that comprise the other properties. One of which is in the fascinating historical landscape of Opoul.

The land here, although only 15 minutes out of Perpignan is dominated by a rocky escarpment that rises over the AP9 meditarrenean motorway at the end of the Corbieres range of mountains. It comprises two ancient villages, one in ruins and abandoned many years ago , but being restored as an historic visitor centre. They are Opoul and Perillous and were ruled over by a lord who was tied to Raymond Count of Toulouse.

This was the line of the border between Spain and France pre the treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659. Raymond was the warrior leader of the Cathars and overlord of the ancient Roussillon lands, who fought against the popes vast horde of northern French knights, sent down to purge the land of the Cathar heretics and led by the ubiquitous and brutal Simon de Montford. It's an incredible history and really worth a look up. This land has an incredible feel to it and you can almost feel the neanderthals prowling the escarpment. There is an international society of Opoul-Perillous, who carry out research as it is believed to be one of the sites of the holy grail, which is claimed to rest in this part of France. All wonderful Dan Brownesque stuff.

On a darker note, you have to pass Perpignan's shame on the road up to Opoul-Perillous, this is a cemetery and war memorial built on the site of the WW2 Nazi internment camp, from where many Gypsies and Jews were sent on to "the camps." The camp part of it has been used for other interment purposes, usually related to immigration up until 2007 when it was closed. 

Thanks for following Mr Algar and good to hear from you..in the rudest tones as ever!!

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